The Question of "Traditional" Sushi

exploring tradition vs creativity

People ask me all kinds of questions about sushi, and I’m always happy to answer. Some questions are about technique, some are about ingredients, and others—like today’s—go much deeper. If you’ve ever had a sushi-related question on your mind, send me a message! I just might answer it in a future newsletter.

Dear Marisa,
As a non-Japanese sushi chef, do you ever feel pressure to keep things traditional? Eager to hear your thoughts!
Respectfully Curious

Dear Respectfully Curious,

Yes. And no.

My sushi journey started in Mississippi of all places. I didn’t have much of a reference because my access to sushi was extremely limited. What I did know came from Japanese cookbooks, and my improvisations were either nods to Japanese cuisine or creative takes based on regional tastes. Because I wasn’t exposed to distinctions of “traditional” versus “creative,” I always assumed that sushi, like any cuisine that travels, was fair game for innovation and adaptation.

That was a blessing.

It never dawned on me that “being creative with sushi” was unusual until I attended sushi school. That’s where I was first met with the divide between what is perceived as traditional and what is not. I felt the weight of having to choose a side. And I felt the weight of expectation—not just as a non-Japanese sushi chef, but as a Black woman in a field where people rarely saw someone like me.

So yes, I feel the pressure to present sushi that looks and feels traditional—because I don’t look like a traditional sushi chef. But that pressure shows up differently than you might think.

When I studied with Sensei, I worked hard to get everything right—but much of what I focused on wasn’t just about technique. I wanted to get the spirit of the cuisine, right, too. For me, that spirit lies in a deep respect for seasonality, regionality, and balance.

The blessing of first making sushi in Mississippi—my way—laid the foundation for how I view the craft. Traditional sushi has never been static. It has evolved from Edo-era street food to the pristine omakase experiences we know today. Some of the most revered sushi chefs in the world are pushing boundaries and making the next shifts in technique and flavor. In that way, I strongly believe that creativity and tradition aren’t at odds—they’re in conversation with each other.

For me, creativity starts with understanding before innovating. I don’t experiment just to be different. If I use pickled okra instead of pickled daikon, it’s because the concept feels aligns with Japanese cuisine’s use of pickled vegetables while honoring a regional Southern favorite. And these days, with my focus on creating plant-based sushi, it’s because I believe that insisting on shipping overfished seafood around the globe strays further from tradition than my explorations ever could.

I’ve also come to accept that my perspective will always be different—and I’m okay with that. I bring my own culinary background, my own way of thinking, and my own voice. Sushi has taught me discipline, patience, and respect, and in return, I bring curiosity and creativity to the craft.

So yes, I feel the pressure. But I also feel the joy of discovering what’s possible. And that’s what keeps me rolling—literally.

- Marisa

We often think of sushi as something fixed—something that has to be “traditional” to be real. But sushi has always evolved, shaped by the people who make it and the places where it’s served. What does “traditional” sushi mean to you?

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February Bonus Edition: Futomaki 101 (Thick Rolls)

Recap February Bonus Edition: Futomaki 101 (Thick Rolls)

Did you catch Futomaki 101—the first monthly bonus edition? Every third Sunday of the month, I will be sharing a deep dive into a Japanese cooking technique. These deep dives will cover a variety of topics.

This month, since I have been sharing stories from my sushi school days, it seemed only fitting to start with a sushi deep dive. In Futomaki 101, I shared:

• A video tutorial breaking down the rolling technique

• Ingredient spotlight: Nori - why it matters and how to choose the best one

• A PDF with techniques, recipes, and a couple of extras to round out sushi night

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If there’s something you’ve always wanted to learn, send me a message! I’d love to hear your ideas for future deep dives!

Right now, bonus editions are open to everyone, but in the future, they’ll be exclusively for paid subscribers.